Thursday, June 14, 2018

SOUTH CAROLINA

We have been traveling up the ICW in South Carolina for the past seven ports. The Lowcountry is beautiful, with wide grasslands, beautiful ports and some interesting wildlife. Some of our Loop friends hurry past this section, but we have truly enjoyed the southern hospitality, scenery and cuisine.  

On our last blog post we promised to try and explain the tides, currents and obstacles when planning our travel day along the ICW. We typically decide our next port by talking to fellow boaters, reading friends Loop blogs, checking the AGLCA web site for suggestions, or looking at Active Captain (for those of you who are land lovers Active Captain is kind-of like YELP for boaters). Once we decide on a Marina we call or make a reservation online (we prefer to call and ask for local docking tips).

After we secure a Marina slip reservation, we look at our navigation charts (online) for warnings, bridges, tides and currents. After assessment of the travel day we check and recheck our weather reports. Before going to sleep we typically have a "game plan" for the next day (we do check our weather again in the morning).

The strong currents are what is new to us on this section of the ICW. After a week or so of travel we are getting better at our travel timing (but we really think you need to live here a lifetime to totally understand).

We have included a few pictures on this post to try and explain the tides, currents, bridges and weather in the Lowcountry (if not interested just skip and look at our travel pictures).

After departing Georgia, we entered South Carolina and stayed in Hilton Head on Sunday, June 3rd. Hilton Head is a Lowcountry resort town. The Island is named after Captain William Hilton, who in 1663 identified the headland and named it after himself. The Island has 12 miles of beach front on the Atlantic Ocean. It is known as "The Golf Island" with 33 championship courses. We liked the beach...but no golf clubs aboard Thistle.

Monday night we docked in Beaufort. The town is known for it's preservation of historic Antebellum mansions. Chartered in 1771, it is the second oldest city in South Carolina (right behind Charleston). Yes, we researched Antebellum Architecture, meaning "pre war" from Latin ante "before" and bellum  "war". It is characteristic of the 19th century Southern United States. We rode bikes around the historic district, admiring the beautiful mansions. We even saw the home where "Big Chill" was filmed. 

The following night we deviated form the typical Looper ports and docked on Kiawah Island. The Island is primarily a private resort with villas, beaches and acclaimed golf courses. We had a lot of fun riding bikes and getting "lost" along the private bike trails! We happened to be so lost we needed to stop and ask directions at the Island Resort. 

Looper Tip: Every Tuesday evening there is a free wine 🍾  tasting at 48 Wine Bar, walking distances from Bohicket Marina. 

On to Port Charleston City Marina for three nights. The city was founded in 1670 as Charles Town, honoring King Charles II of England. It's defined by cobblestone streets, horse drawn carriages, well preserved architecture, elegant homes and hospitality! Fort Sumter is one of the tourist highlights, and is where the first shots of the Civil War were fired. We loved touring Charleston, but the best part was visiting friends during our stay. Charleston was awarded "Americas Most Friendly City" by Travel and Leisure, "The Most Polite and Hospitable City in America" by Southern Living and "Worlds Best City" in 2016, again by Travel and Leisure. We have to agree......👍

After a fun stay in Charleston, we felt like we went back in time for one night in the small rural town of McClellanville. The town has a population of about 1,000. The town's livelihood is centered 
around fishing, shrimping and oystering. Life moves very slowly here...it was one of the most unique, interesting and favorite stops thus far on our Loop. This port was in very "Skinny Water", we had to plan our arrival and departure carefully. Upon departure we "kissed" the bottom and warned fellow Loopers following us out of the channel. 

Sunday night was in Georgetown. The third oldest city in South Carolina. The town has a nice Harbor Walk and downtown area. We found it interesting that very few business were open on Sunday and NO mixed drinks are sold in South Carolina on Sunday (it's the Law). At a local restaurant we had the pleasure of randomly meeting the crew aboard Waterford (a gorgeous Kadey Krogan). They were a wealth of knowledge, and sent us future port recommendations, and navigational notes on some dangerous spots on the ICW ...🙂 Thank You 🍷

Our last port in South Carolina was Monday, June 11th in Myrtle Beach. The town is situated in the center of a long continuous 60 mile stretch of beach. It is known as "The Grand Strand". The beach attracts some 14 million beach visitors per year. We docked at the Barefoot Marina. It's in the middle of what we would term adult Disneyland ( a bit 😜 crazy)...with live music venues, very large capacity restaurants, discount malls, and more hoopla....

South Carolina, Thank You for your exceptional hospitality and breathtaking Lowcountry♥️

Looper Tip: There is no reason to hurry through the Lowcountry. Slow down and enjoy!

Our seven port stops in South Carolina.
Hilton Head
Beaufort 
Kiawah Island
Charleston 
McClellanville
Georgetown 
Myrtle Beach

On the ICW in South Carolina, 
admiring the beautiful "Lowcountry" with "Skinny Water" 😱

Special sights along the ICW. 
An eagle, water front homes, an alligator 🐊 and vibrant blue hydrangeas.
The next few pictures we will attempt to explain some of the factors (complications) when planning our journey for the day.

The currents on this section of the ICW can be wicked...and tricky to understand. 
It's mandatory to study the currents before we decide what time to push off the dock.
This example is Elliott Cut Inlet.

The tides are easier to understand, but also play a critical part in timing our travel on the ICW.
This example was traveling in and out of McClellanville.
Thistle drafts 4 feet, we planned arrival and departure on a rising tide.
(Note some of the boats resting on the bottom at low tide.)

The relationship between currents and tides. 
We attempt to plan our docking each day around the "slack water".

There are also many bridges on the ICW.
We note the H ( blue on our navigation app). 
Then check to see if we can fit under the bridge or need to request an opening by VHF radio.
Some bridges open on a regular schedule (hour and half or 15 and 45). 

Then to complicate travel or create some excitement we also receive 
weather updates throughout the day. 
These were some examples during our travels through South Carolina. 

Harbour Town Marina on Hilton Head Island was our first stop in South Carolina. 
Once docked at the Marina a dockhand presents each guest with a bottle of their special label wine 🍷
This was a Loop first 🙂...Thank you! 

We rode our bikes to the beach, and then listened to a concert under the Marina's oak tree.
Yes, the lighthouse is plaid.
When someone wins the RBC Heritage at Harbour Town Golf Links they slip on a plaid jacket for the trophy ceremony. 

Beautiful Beaufort SC 
Pronounced "BYOO-fert"

Historic District Homes. 

Bohicket Marina on Kiawah Island. 
We were assigned a lovely T Head slip with an unobstructed view of Lowcountry. 

We rode bikes to the Sanctuary Resort, and enjoyed lunch with ice tea in the elegant hotel. 
(Yes, we snuck in 😱...another story?)

Stopped at Fresh Fields Village for wine and boiled peanuts.
Then watched a special sunset aboard Thistle.

Charleston City Marina.
We finally are in the same City with our good friends Jim & Lesley aboard Tyre-less. 
Great to see you ♥️

The annual Spoleto Festival was happening in Charleston.

We attended a Spoleto culinary event in a private historic Charleston home.
Palate Magazine sponsored a Southern Dinner with Italian influence.
Yum 😋

Historic Charleston.

Great restaurants in Charleston.
(These were some of our favorites.)

Reenie was happy to see her USLA friend Nikki. 
Lots and lots of rain in Charleston.

A pretty Charleston sunset.
And an early push off the City dock the next morning...
Sights departing Charleston: Arthur Revenel Bridge, a Confederate Flag, storm clouds, Fort Sumter and smiles 😀. 

Leland Marine in McClellanville SC.
This is the check-in office! 
(Notce the difference between high and low tides.)

McClellanville is a fishing town.
T.W. Graham's (established as a restaurant in 1894) was great!
That evening enjoyed sunset with a rainbow aboard Thistle will fellow Loopers aboard Knot Kidd'n.

McClellanville was an unexpected pleasure to visit. 
It is full of Southern charm and our fast paced world somehow passed this town by ...

A 1,000 year old oak tree in McClellanville. 

A quick stop at the Harborwalk Marina in Georgetown.
Almost everything was closed on Sunday. 

Barefoot Marina in Myrtle Beach SC.
A nice beach with surf. 

We enjoyed some live music at The House of Blues before the rain started. 

We docked at the Barefoot Marina for the weekly Monday night firework show. 
The show was cancelled due to rain. 
Well, we were not disappointed...
The heavens put on quite an original thunder and lightning show for hours that evening.

The next morning we safely crosses "Dangerous Rocks". 
Watch Out North Carolina...Here we come ♥️







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